Hexham & Kielder

Hexham is the main town of the Tyne valley, built around its ancient abbey, and it's the natural gateway west and north into Kielder — one of the largest expanses of forest and open water in England.

Hexham Abbey has roots going back to the Anglo-Saxon period, and its crypt still preserves stonework from that early phase, though most of what visitors see above ground is later medieval building. The town around it has a proper market-town feel, with a historic Moot Hall and a lively market day, and it sits right on the Tyne Valley railway line, making it one of the more accessible bases in the county for anyone without a car.

West of Hexham, Kielder Water is the largest reservoir by capacity in northern Europe, and the forest surrounding it is one of the largest planted woodlands in England, both managed as Kielder Water & Forest Park. The area's remoteness and lack of light pollution have made it one of the best-known stargazing destinations in the country, with Kielder Observatory running public astronomy events on clear nights, and the whole area designated a Dark Sky Park in recognition of its exceptionally low light pollution.

Choosing a base

Hexham is the better choice for a comfortable, well-connected town base with a wider choice of places to stay and eat, while somewhere nearer Kielder itself makes sense if stargazing or the forest trails and water sports on the reservoir are the main focus of the trip. The drive from Hexham out to Kielder takes you through Northumberland National Park, so it's worth allowing time rather than treating it as a quick hop.

Where to Stay in Hexham & Kielder

• 
  The Beaumont HotelVictorian townhouse hotel in Hexham, opposite the abbey.
• Slaley Hall Hotel, Spa & Golf ResortCountry estate hotel a few miles south of Hexham.
• 
  Battlesteads HotelFormer coaching inn in Wark, on the edge of Kielder Water & Forest Park, with its own Dark Sky observatory.
• 
  Riverdale Hall HotelCountry house hotel on the North Tyne at Bellingham, en route to Kielder.
• 
  The Pheasant Inn17th-century inn at Stannersburn, about a mile from Kielder Water.

When to visit for dark skies

Clear, moonless nights away from summer's short darkness give the best stargazing conditions, so autumn and winter tend to work best if that's the priority — check the observatory's own event listings before travelling, since sessions depend on the weather and are sometimes cancelled or rescheduled at short notice.